Penang: The Bonfire Run

George Town, Penang, Malaysia

I didn’t wake up expecting a story.

That’s the funny thing about the days that change you — they never send a memo. They don’t knock. They don’t warn. They just take you by the back of the neck and drag you into something you weren’t quite ready for.

All I planned was a run.

I took the elevator down from the 31st floor, pressed the call button, and while I waited, I glanced out the window. The sunrise was ridiculous — soft, golden peach, cracked open over Penang like it was trying to prove a point. I snapped a photo. It was the first moment of the day where something inside me whispered, “Oh, this is going to be good.”

But I didn’t stay in it.

I didn’t admire it.

I didn’t reflect.

I didn’t think, Are you sure today is just a run?

I just thought:

What a great fucking morning for a run.

The Grab — Malaysia’s version of Uber — dropped me at the Kek Lok Si Temple bus parking lot, a quiet slab of pavement tucked beneath the base of the mountain. I stretched a little, shook my legs loose, breathed in the morning. The plan was simple: up the mountain, around, down, done. About three hours. Easy enough.

Then I started.

And the mountain made itself known immediately.

No gentle warm-up.

No slow incline.

No “let’s get you moving before we get serious.”

The moment my watch beeped “Start,” the paved road shot upward like a dare.

But something clicked instantly — not effort, not determination, but rhythm. I didn’t fight the grade. I didn’t hesitate. I didn’t care that I was climbing a concrete wall. I was mentally ready for whatever came next, with a smile on my face.

The jungle closed in quickly, tightening around the road until I was moving through a narrow, green corridor. After about ninety minutes of climbing, sweating, and staying locked in, the road forked. At the second junction, there was a building — Sitavana Vihara, home to a group of monks.

The door was already open.

The monks inside noticed me as I passed.

No words.

Just a glance, a subtle curiosity, like they were silently wondering where this random guy in running gear was going.

The paved road kept climbing, narrowing to a lane barely wide enough for a small car. I followed it for a few minutes before realizing it dead-ended at a planting field. No trail. No continuation. Just a hard stop.

I doubled back toward the monks — second pass.

Near the junction, an older woman noticed me studying my phone, clearly trying to figure out where the trail should have been. I asked her, and the monks, if a trail existed nearby — where it was, how to find it. The monk stepped forward, pointed confidently to a direction he believed matched my intended route, but warned:

“Very hard way. Not where you want to go.”

Even after his certainty, I stepped that direction, trusting his authority. Within minutes, it was obvious he was wrong.

So I turned back again — third pass — walked past the monks, and this time committed to his “very hard way” because hard or not, it was the only direction left.

I found the trail.

Sort of.

It lasted about a hundred yards before dead-ending into a small shack perched at the cliff’s edge. What AllTrails had listed as a “bike path” was nothing more than someone’s bikeway driveway.

So I retreated back to the junction — again — and searched.

And that’s when I found it:

A nearly invisible opening in the jungle.

Not marked.

Not cleared.

Not shaped.

Just the faintest suggestion of human footsteps from… who knows when. Years ago, maybe.

Every step I took in that direction felt like a question:

“There’s no way this is the trail.”

“There’s no way a bike ever came through here.”

“Why the hell does AllTrails show this as a path?”

But the truth — and the problem — was that it was the way.

The only way.

Five minutes into the jungle, my legs began itching. Badly. But I refused to rub anything — the last thing I wanted was some plant toxin spread across my body. So I stopped for a quick inventory.

That’s when I saw them.

First: about 10 thorns lodged in my knee, tiny dots of blood forming around each puncture.

Second: the itching wasn’t a rash. It was just where leaves had been scraping my inner thigh.

Third — and most impressive — the leech.

A fat, dark slug latched aggressively onto the outside of my left thigh.

Not horrifying. Not panic-inducing. Just… another obstacle. Something to remove and keep moving.

The next two hours were pure jungle — the kind of dense, unforgiving, overgrown madness that barely qualifies as terrain. No visibility. No markings. No guarantee the vague line beneath my feet was actually a trail.

Every footstep felt like it could reveal something that didn’t want me there.

Ants by the thousands on branches I had to avoid touching.

Fallen trees I climbed, ducked, or crawled under.

Broken earth.

Unknown noises.

Thoughts wandering into the absurd:

“Are there pythons? Tigers? Wild guerillas?

Does anything out here eat humans?”

Ignorance wasn’t bliss.

Ignorance was fuel.

Because if something was out there, I didn’t know — and not knowing kept me sharp.

And the deeper truth hit me somewhere along the climb:

If I got hurt out here,

if I fell,

if something attacked me,

it would be a very long time before anyone found me.

If ever.

No rescue.

No hikers.

No support.

Nobody is coming to save you.

That wasn’t fear.

It was clarity.

Eventually — two and a half hours into the climb — the trail met a clearing, and that’s when I saw it:

A small concrete structure, about a foot and a half tall, shaped like an old explosive shell.

It didn’t belong there.

Which is exactly why I knew:

I’d reached the top.

Not a viewpoint.

Not a summit with sweeping vistas.

Just a jungle-covered peak with a T-junction of worn dirt paths.

I didn’t stop.

I didn’t rest.

I didn’t celebrate.

I simply shifted my weight forward and began the descent.

The trail on the backside was clearer — still jungle, still dense, but at least recognizable. Enough so that I could occasionally break into a slow, tired shuffle. Ten seconds here. Thirty seconds there. Movement for the sake of momentum.

When the trail finally spat me onto pavement, my shuffle became consistent. Predictable. The pavement dipped and curved in switchbacks, steep enough to wake up my quads but nothing difficult.

And somewhere down those switchbacks, my shoes began sloshing — not because I’d stepped in water, but because I’d sweated so much the inside of each shoe had become a personal aquarium.

It was disgusting and hilarious at the same time.

The switchbacks led to the dam road.

And the dam road led me to the dam parking lot, wide, half full, and unremarkable.

This is where the real decision happened.

Three hours and forty minutes into what was supposed to be a three-hour run, tired, soaked, hungry, vibrating from the jungle… I stepped into the parking lot and had a clean, simple thought:

“Just stop here. Call a Grab. Be done.”

And it made perfect sense.

The easiest possible out.

The most reasonable end point.

Four hours in, who would blame me?

Then came the response — equally simple, equally clean:

“No. You finish what you said you’d do.”

Three seconds.

End of negotiation.

I turned away from the parking lot, picked up my exhausted shuffle, and started down the final mile and a half.

This stretch wasn’t hard.

Not physically.

Not mentally.

It was a victory lap — humid, overcast, downhill, steady. A few hundred more feet of descent. My mind was soaring. My legs felt alive. My body knew the battle was over.

Nothing could stop me now.

When the pavement straightened and widened, I recognized where I was.

The Kek Lok Si parking lot —

the exact place where the Grab had dropped me off that morning.

I shuffled across the pavement, lifted my arm, and stopped the watch.

Four hours.

Mission complete.

No celebration.

No collapse.

No applause.

Just a quiet certainty:

I kept my word to myself

That was it. The adventure part of the day ended right there — on a slab of pavement that looked no different than it had that morning, except now I was standing in it with something heavy and earned sitting quietly inside me.

GEORGE TOWN — THE REST OF THE DAY

Hin Bus Depot

I called a Grab and went back to the hotel.

After cleaning up, the plan was simple: do nothing.

And I would’ve been perfectly fine with that.

But after sitting still for a bit during lunch, I walked back out. No urgency. No goal. Just a loose idea — maybe a nail salon. My feet had taken a beating, and it felt like a reasonable next move, groom my hands.

The first salon was closed.

The second couldn’t take me.

The third was closing.

The fourth didn’t have availability.

Four tries. No success.

So I let it go and pivoted to something easier. I found a local bakery and bought a large cookie. No meaning attached. No reward narrative. Just a cookie because I wanted one.

Cookiecrumbs Bake Shop

Standing there eating it, I decided to try again.

This time, I found a nail salon that could take me. Manicure done. Quiet. Uneventful. Just sitting still and letting someone else handle decisions for a change.

After that, I didn’t head back to the hotel. I walked to a barber and got a haircut. Another spontaneous decision. Another small reset. Cleaned up. Lined up. Finished.

From there, I wandered George Town for about thirty minutes. No destination. No checklist. Just walking through the city, letting the day settle into itself.

Later, I sat down and journaled. Not creatively. Not for anyone else. Just notes — capturing what had surfaced since the morning. That’s when the next decision appeared, calmly and without pressure:

I was going to the gym.

The evening workout wasn’t a test. It wasn’t hard. It wasn’t symbolic. It was just movement and breathe — a way to keep the body honest and close the physical loop of the day.

After that, I got on a call with Bryan. Nothing dramatic. Just a conversation that landed differently because of everything that had already happened. A quiet affirmation for both of us that we’re making good decisions in our lives. Some days give you better listening ears. This was one of them.

And then — because the day still had one more turn in it — I locked myself out of my room.

Completely. No key. No phone.

What should have been the quiet end of a long day turned into a drawn-out stretch that ran from midnight to nearly 2 a.m. The issue wasn’t the hotel staff. It was the third-party hosting company. Calls went unanswered. Messages went nowhere. No access. No resolution. No timeline.

Somewhere in that window — between midnight and two — something settled in clearly.

I had zero control over the situation.

None.

And because of that, there was zero reason to be frustrated or upset about it.

The emotions that naturally want to show up in moments like that — irritation, anger, resentment — I saw them for what they were: choices. Optional reactions to something I couldn’t influence in any way. Getting upset wouldn’t fix it. Wouldn’t speed it up. Wouldn’t change the outcome by even a second.

So I didn’t.

Around 2 a.m., the situation clarified itself. The hosting company wasn’t answering. I wasn’t getting back into that room tonight. The options narrowed quickly.

Sleep in the lobby.

Or solve the problem myself.

I bought a room directly from the hotel — not through a third party — with nothing but the clothes I was wearing. No bag access. No gear. No comforts. Just a working key and a door that closed.

When I stepped into the elevator and the doors slid shut, headed up to the new room, the entire weight of the day finally caught up to me.

And I lost it.

Not frustration.

Not anger.

Just full, uncontrollable laughter.

Outburst laughter.

The kind that comes when you zoom out far enough to see how absurd the whole sequence really is — the jungle, the run, the pivots, the lockout, the timing, the irony of it all stacking perfectly on top of itself. I laughed because there was nothing else to do but laugh. Because everything that could happen already had.

I didn’t regain access to my original room until 9:30 a.m. the next morning.

By then, the ripple effects were already in motion. I missed my planned train. Instead, I adjusted again. I caught a 1:00 p.m. bus and arrived at my destination by 6:30 p.m.

Another plan changed.

Another pivot executed.

Another forward move made.

The mountain had been the bonfire.

The rest of the day — and the morning after — was momentum without resistance.

No panic.

No frustration.

No collapse.

Just decisions.

Just movement.

Just forward.

Plans changed.

The direction didn’t.

And that was enough.

Cameron Highlands, Malaysia. Next Morning

Distance: 10.67 mi

Calories 1,944 Cal

Elevation Gain 3,120 ft

Avg Pace 18:09 /mi

Avg Heart Rate 136 bpm

Leave a comment